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A lesson from Kotor: I’m a travel snob and proud of it

Dissing popular attractions in favour or lesser-known destinations apparently makes me a travel snob. But visiting Kotor in Montenegro was a reminder of the experiences I enjoy and value when I travel....

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29 fun facts from two months in the Balkans

Did you know Albanians put teddy bears outside their houses to ward off bad spirits? And that some kids in Serbia only go to school in the afternoon? Enjoy some of the things I've learnt after spending...

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The pros and cons of spontaneous travel by a former control freak

It's been three months and the verdict on spontaneous travel is in: I LOVE IT. It hasn't always been easy, but the experience has changed how I'll travel in the future.

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A slow train through the Balkans

The trip from Belgrade to Bar is about 11 hours, but I rode that train for two weeks.

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Losing my way

I wasn't lost. Not in the way I could be in mountains and trails like these. But I had no idea where I was or where I was going.

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A perfect day in Biogradska Gora’s virgin forest

We were about to turn around when we saw the old man. He called out and walked towards us. “Bendovac?” he asked, referring to the mountain to our right. “We’re not sure,” we said, explaining we didn’t...

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(Politely) gatecrashing a wedding in Montenegro

The ceremony was over and the wedding certificate had been signed. It was time for the new husband and wife to walk gracefully down the aisle right? Wrong. Things are done a bit differently in...

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Highlights from one month in the Balkans

Is it really only one month since I left London? I’d like to say it’s gone so fast, but it feels like I’ve been away a lot longer. Most of that time has been spent in just two countries: Serbia and...

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